Revised Sept 13th, 2001

 

THE BELGIANS OF SOUTH-CENTRAL MANITOBA

Based mainly on the text by Marcel Haegeman*, Swan Lake - 1994

The first group of Belgians who immigrated to Manitoba arrived at St. Alphonse, Manitoba in the spring of 1888 to take up homesteads. Individual immigrants had arrived earlier, but it is believed these were the first to come as a group.

There is speculation as to who was responsible for their coming. The Catholic Church had sent agents to France, Belgium and Switzerland to encourage French-speaking Catholics to settle in Manitoba. At the same time, agents from the Canadian government were touring the agricultural areas of Europe looking for prospective immigrants, and trying to settle them in areas of Manitoba that were similar to where they lived in Europe. It would seem that both parties were equally successful, for the church had their French-speaking Catholics. and the district around St. Alphonse was almost identical to the Ardennes region of southern Belgium, from whence most of the newcomers had emigrated. Even the few Flemings ithat came from a district in the west-central part of Belgium known as the "Flemish Ardennes". felt at home because the rolling wooded countryside there was similar to that to which they had come in Manitoba. Both the church and the government wanted agricultural settlers, and had decided that this area in Manitoba would be suitable for the mixed farming to which the Belgians were accustomed.

The French-Canadians who were already homesteading in St. Alphonse in 1883 welcomed the newcomers with whom they shared a language and religion, as even the newcomers with a Flemish background spoke French. [Others such as Emile Lebrun and his son Eugene came from the French-speaking part of Belgium. Emile wrote a letter about his experiences as a settler.]1 The French-Canadians opened up their homes to the settlers, and gave them temporary lodging until they got settled in their own homes. [Some Belgian immigrants were unhappy with the winter weather and other things not to their liking and would have gone back but they did not have the money for the fare back to Belgium.3 A related story is that of Isador Van De Spiegle who farmed a few years near Bruxelles and then moved to St. Boniface where he had an industrial accident in a mill. On recovery he was offered another job or a lump sum as compensation. He accept the money and moved with his family back to Belgium in December 1930. His oldest daughter Leona return to Belgium with the family but was unhappy there and at the age of 57 years in 1971 returned for a visit. Because she had been schooled in English she was popular in Belgium but was never happy there. When she died in January 2000 in Belgium a Canadian flag was flown at her funeral. 4 ]

Although building materials were available in the villages of Cypress River, Holland and Swan Lake, the newcomers built their first homes of logs mostly for economic reasons, but also because of their availability. A French-Canadian family owned a saw mill, and poplar logs could be brought there to be sawn into lumber for cabin roofs. The one advantage poplar lumber had was that it could be used immediately after sawing, as it did not shrink while drying. The settlers were advised to use it as soon as possible, for the French-Canadians said "so that when it warp it warp straight". Within a few years a Belgian family also owned a sawmill, so eventually more lumber than logs was being used for building.
Shortly after building a residence, the married Belgians who came alone would send for their families, although in some cases it would be several years before the families could come to Canada. One of the requirements for obtaining a homestead was that a residence had to be built, [so after building their
log house,such as that of Augustin Godard shown here,]1 many left to look for employment elsewhere to earn money to send to their families, or to buy whatever was needed to begin farming, as very few of them had sufficient funds to start. Many of them found employment on the railways. The C.P.R. was being extended west of Cypress River, and to the southeast the Pacific Northern Railway (later to be known as the C.N.R.) was laying a line which would pass through Somerset, Swan Lake and Mariapolis in 1889/90.
   [The
log house shown may seem primitive but the Henry Swennen 's father who came to Canada with him in 1951 had lived up until the 1920's in a thatched hut made of clay reinforced with branches. Its floor was packed dirt and the animals: a horse, cow, pig and chickens shared the same hut with the farmer and his family! So a larger log house such as shown here, even if the barn was attached, on one's own homestead must have seemed like Heaven to those that came from Limburg and Brabant, and possibly other places in Belgium in the early 1890's.]

Many of the settlers would go away to find work elsewhere in summertime, and return to their homesteads in the winter to start clearing land for breaking. The tool they used was a grub-hoe, also called a mattock &emdash; a tool with a sharp blade on one side tnb cut roots, and on the other a curved hoe-type blade to clear the dirt away from the roots. With the coming of the railways there was also a market for cordwood. This was a source of revenue in the wintertime and only wood cut in the winter could be sold. Many thousands of cords of wood were hauled to the railway stations at Holland, Swan Lake and Mariapolis, where the wood was piled on flatcars and shipped to Winnipeg.

In order to haul the wood to the railways the settlers needed horses or oxen. Of these the oxen were the most popular as they could "live off the land', whereas horses needed oats which were not always available. Also, when an ox became too old to work it could be butchered, and the meat used for food. It was said that ox meat was so tough you could sit down to dinner hungry and get up tired! Oxen were slow and had a working speed of only two miles an hour, however it was said that when they were frightened, or when the flies were bad, they were capable of speeds that would make a horse blush! Many of the farmers used oxen to break the new land. They were slow but strong and generally patient. These animals felt the heat very much and would try to get into the water of a nice comfortable slough if at all possible. They had a joke about the oxen in the early days. One man had 3 animals and he called them by name as a Presbyterian, a Baptist and a Methodist. "Why did you use these names?" he was asked. "Well," he answered, "the big ox was bad for bawling at nights, so he was called a Methodist, the red one would always lay down in the water so we called him a Baptist, and the other, the roan, we called him a Presbyterian because we could not make him work on Sundays.

As more land was cleared and oats grown the homesteaders would buy horses. At first it would be only one or two to use for transportation, while oxen would still be used for field work as they were cheaper to buy and more economical to work with. It was many years before horses finally replaced oxen.

As more Belgian immigrants arrived all available homesteads were being taken up, and the district north of St. Alphonse, which was known as St. Alphonse North, became the Bruxelles district, with its own village, named after the capital of Belgium from whence had come the first parish priest and one of the early settlers.

1While the lure of free land 5 was responsible for the Belgians coming to Manitoba &emdash; 160 acres for the registration fee of $10.00 &emdash; not all land was free. Of the 36 sections in a Township, the odd-numbered sections 1 to 35, with the exception of sections 11 and 27, were given by the Federal Government to the C.P.R. to compensate for the cost of building railways in western Canada. Sections 11 and 27 were school sections, to be sold by public auction and the monies raised used to build schools. Even-numbered sections 2 to 36, with the exception of sections 8 and 26, were homestead lands. Sections 8 and 26 were given to the Hudson's Bay Company as compensation for properties surrendered to the government, so of the 144 quarter sections in a Township, only 64 were available as government homesteads.

Belgian immigrants who came to Bruxelles and St. Alphonse after the government homesteads were taken up had to purchase land from companies, or from the government when school lands were sold by auction. Settlers with established homesteads could also buy company lands to increase their holdings. Shortly after the arrival of the Belgians, many French&emdash; Canadians, fed up with the difficulty of clearing land around St. Alphonse, moved out west to Saskatchewan or south to the North Dakota when land became available there. They had no difficulty selling their farms to newcomers who had not managed to obtain homesteads.

In 1888 a young Belgian who was single, and had arrived with the first group, went to Swan Lake to look for work and to learn English. Although Swan Lake had been settled by English farmers from Ontario in 1878, there were still homesteads available. This young Belgian was encouraged by the English farmers that he worked for to take a homestead there rather than at St. Alphonse. He did so, and for several years was the only Belgian settler in the Swan Lake district. In the years to come other Belgians settled around Swan Lake by purchasing land from companies, the railway, or from English farmers who had reached retirement age and had no sons to take over.

Some of the English farmers from Ontario, whose fathers and grandfathers had settled there decades earlier, sent their sons to the cities to further their education. These sons did not return to the farms, and when the fathers could no longer farm they sold their land to the Belgians. Other English farmers who had sons, but not enough land, discovered they could sell their land to the Belgians for a good price and move elsewhere to purchase land where more was available, or take up new homesteads out west when they became available. Thus it is that today in the Swan Lake district, which was once ninety-nine per cent English, only a few English families remain.

The Belgian children, on the other hand, when they reached the age of thirteen or fourteen had to leave their schooling to help out on the farms, regardless of how much or little education they had received. It would be several decades before many would receive high school education. The few who did go on to receive higher education in the early days did so to become teachers, or to enter religious life. However, when the Belgians first came they tried to learn English as soon as possible. A French-Canadian Mother Superior from St. Alphonse Convent school once remarked that "concerning languages, one could learn from the Belgians that it is possible to learn two or more languages, as many of them already speak two languages and are now learning a third."

The heavily wooded areas around Bruxelles, St. Alphonse and Swan Lake were also a source of income for immigrants from Belgium who had come when homesteads were no longer available. They quickly found work grubbing for homesteaders, or for established farmers. Many had already spent several years doing backbreaking work in the sugarbeet fields in France before coming to Manitoba, so had no difficulty working in the bush day after day. Many had come with only enough money to buy a grub&emdash;hoe after paying for their passage. At first they would work for daily wages, but soon discovered they could make a great deal more money working by the acre, or a set amount of money for a specified portion of bush. The landowners supplied room and board. In summer grubbing began at 6 am. with a lunch-break at 9 a.m. and again at 4 p.m. Lunch consisted of two raw eggs and a few sandwiches. After the evening meal workers carried on until darkness forced them to stop. In the winter they grubbed until the snow became too deep, and the rest of the winter they worked for the farmer for room and board.

In the summertime when the weather was hot the men would drink a great deal of water, and as a result many came down with a form of dysentery known as "summer complaint." An English doctor advised them to put oatmeal in their drinking water, a handful to a gallon. While the taste left something to be desired, it did quench their thirst, and was effective in preventing the sickness.

Because of their occupation these men became known as "grubbers". Sometimes the odd one would have difficulty collecting the money owed to him, but in most cases the owners were satisfied to pay the price agreed upon. One young grubber told of an experience when grubbing for a farmer north of Pilot Mound. He and the farmer had agreed on a price for grubbing a piece of bush. Seeing how far the grubber had progressed after a week, the farmer complained that he had been overcharged - that the grubber was making fantastic wages, whereupon the grubber said, "I'll make a deal with you. Come with me to the bush tomorrow morning to start grubbing, and if you can keep up to me for a whole day I will finish the rest of the bluff at no cost to you. If you cannot keep up just pay me what we agreed upon." Next morning the owner and the grubber went to the bush at 6 am., and for the first two hours the owner had actually done more than the grubber, but by 10 am. he started straightening himself upright and rubbing his back, and by 11 am. he was also looking up at the sky as well. By noon he was ready to call it quits, and never complained again.

When working in abrasive soils, grubhoe blades would wear quickly, and would have to be taken to a blacksmith to be heated, hammered out, tempered and resharpened. Tempering was an art in itself, for if the blade was tempered too much it would be brittle and break; if not enough the metal would be soft and wear down quickly. The Scottish-born blacksmith at Swan Lake, who was known for the quality of his work, sharpened so many grub&emdash;hoes that he referred to them as "Belgian flags" - a name by which they are known to this day.

While many of the first Belgians left the district to take up homesteads further west or south when they became available, most of them were satisfied to remain in the district which they had already traveled a few thousand miles to reach. They now owned farms which they could never have owned in Belgium, and eventually, as conditions improved with better housing, roads, and availability of education, they never regretted coming to Manitoba. As the years went by more land was purchased by Belgians in the surrounding districts of South-Central Manitoba. Today most can trace their ancestry to the families who settled in St. Alphonse and Bruxelles over one hundred years ago.

*Deceased Sept 5, 2001 1 editor's interpolation 2St.Alph page143 3According to Jules Temmerman as told by his daughter Julia. 4As reported by his niece Julia Van De Spiegle. 5Posted in rural Belgium in the late 1800s. Courtesy of the Provincial Archives of Manitoba.


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