Landing a canoe against a dock, river bank, or rock outcrop is an important skill when out for the day or in the middle of a longer trip. Before you start practicing landings make sure you are comfortable with paddling solo in a straight line. Make sure you can go at least 25m with very little deviation.
To start with I want to clarify what I mean by inside/outside
landings. People often find the terminology 'inside/outside' confusing
when dealing with landings since they are thinking about the shore
not the paddler and canoe. The direction that you turn is the same as an
inside or outside turn or circle on open water:
| Outside Turn | Inside Turn |
| Outside: The turn is away from the solo paddling side (or stern side in tandem *). This means that the paddle is between the canoe and dock at the end of the maneuver. | Inside: The turn is towards the solo paddling side (or stern side in tandem). This means at the end of the landing the paddle is on the far side from the dock. |
|
|
Landings:
The 'right way' to execute a landing depends a little on conditions, where you need to land, and having time to practice - what works for me may not work for others. I have assumed you are using a symetric canoe with some rocker and some tumbleholm. If you are in a canoe with a straight keel line and a v-bottom you will find turns and landings more difficult. The following provides a starting point and some alternative options.
Inside Landings
Most people find inside landings easier to execute when just starting.
A common problem here is to much continued motion towards the dock. It is kind of cool to 'bump' the dock but it also shows lack of control. The reverse sweep is appropriate for landings because you want to stop the forward motion of the canoe; unlike an inside turn where you want to continue forward motion.
When you have this landing working well try initiating the turn with a running bow draw (duffek), or cut. Freak out your friends and prove you really are a contortionist by using a cross bow jam with the canoe still heeled to the inside.
Outside Landings
The outside landing is a little tricker to master. This is because the turn is often initiated with a sweep which adds to the forward motion, unlike the inside landing where the reserve sweep stops the canoe. For this reason, when you are comfortable with the canoe motion, using a cross cut, or jam may work better. The second set of strokes are just alittle harder to execute correctly. The jam requires deep water.
Over rotation is the biggest problem I find with this landing along with stopping the overall motion towards the dock. Removing the heel as you come around and adding a small push away behind you will help.
When you feel comfortable you can try two alternatives to initiate
the turn: a) Initiate with a jam or forward running pry (look really
cool and do this one handed). Initiating with a Jam is probably the
hardest of the landing maneuvers. b) Initiate with a cross cut or
forward running cross draw (cross duffeck). When to use these depends
on conditions, water depth, shoreline (dock), and your abilities. The
most difficult thing about using these alternatives is stopping the
forward motion of the canoe.
Weight Turns:
I have found practicing weight turns very helpful when working on
solo turns and landings. These turns give you a feel for how the
canoe is going to turn anyway; with practice you can actually do
landings without a paddle.
A weight turn is basically turning the canoe without using a
paddle using the subtle direction and momentum already in the canoe
from the last stroke (or two). You can turn the canoe and control the
turn rate using just your weight.
Practice on a on a calm, wind free, lake. Start by paddling in a straight
line then pull your paddle out of the water and heel the canoe over. It
should turn one way (or the other) depending on the how the canoe is
running. The key with weight turns is the ability to move your
weight and adjust the amount of heel.
When the is canoe weighted it will have have some natural
tendancy to turn based on the amount of heel and pitch (see edging). Except in extreme cases any existing
inertia and force from the paddle will overwhelm this natural tendency. The
trick is to have all of the forces work together when possible.
To slow or stop the rate of turn level the canoe (no heel) to
increase the drag on the stems of the canoe. Weighting the back end
of the canoe also slows the turn in some cases. Conversly un-weighting
the back end of the canoe by moving forward, slightly, will allow the
back of the canoe to swing or wash out freely. Increasing the amount
of heel will excentuate this effect.
When first trying out weight turns just pull your paddle out and
see where things go. Control the speed of the turn by adjusting the
amount of heel on the canoe. Try moving your weight backward and
forward to see how different positions change the rate and direction
of the turn. With practice you can actually
get the canoe to turn the direction you want without the last stroke
cheat.
Outside Weight Turn Inside Weight Turn Here are a few additional clips Final Thoughts:
*I have always referenced the stern
paddler when determining 'inside' or 'outside'. Some authors and paddling
organizations reference the bow paddler.
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Email: burc...@cc.umanitoba.ca
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Last modified: Fri Sep 9 21:32:26 2011