Why Learn to Solo - Canoe?

As an instructor I encourage people to learn the basics of solo paddling if they want to lead canoe trips or teach others how to paddle a canoe. The question often comes up - why? In the end I think it is a matter of safety on a canoe trip and convenience when teaching. The ability to paddle solo makes you a better, stronger, canoest overall with a close and intimate understanding of how the boat moves through the water and how different forces, such as wind and current, affect the canoe.

When tripping, whether it is only a short paddle down a nearby creek or a longer wilderness trip, the ability to solo can be a matter of group safety. If there was an accident or illness that forced you to paddle the canoe by yourself the solo skills that you have learned and practiced might save a life. Many people learn how to solo in an empty boat on calm water; there is a vast difference between paddling a empty canoe and one filled with with a trip worth of gear and food (not to mention possibly another person). If your interest is in wilderness tripping I suggest that you load up a canoe at least once a season and go paddling to see how your canoe, which might be sprightly and quick when empty, becomes a wallowing barge when loaded. Also spend at least a little time in all kinds of conditions (wind, waves, current) to see how the canoe behaves. Not only will this improve your paddling skills it will give you a head start if you have to bring someone home.

As an instructor I solo in about half of my tandem courses - just the way the numbers work. The truth is I prefer to solo since I can move between different canoes and focus on their skills rather than on both their skills and my tandem partner. Solo I can demonstrate body position, maneuvers, and strokes as both bow and stern. This is the reason that I strongly advocate that a canoe instructor should be comfortable with soloing a canoe - even if they never teach a solo course.

Getting in a canoe by yourself without any background or experience can be frustrating and possibly dangerous, but once you understand the basics of paddling going solo is a fast teacher; you are in total control, anything you do is not off-set by another person in the boat. You don't need to take a course, it helps though, but spend time to figure out the best paddling positions and stokes that are needed before heading off on an adventure. I would recommend reading through Path of the Paddle by Bill Mason or get, and watch, his instructional videos by the same name. Classic Solo Canoeing from Becky Mason will also give some ideas on body position and strokes. When first starting out find a sheltered bay or calm (still water) creek to practice.

Although I have enjoyed many trips on my own I am not going to advocate a completely solo trip, going out with a group (one or all) solo can be a rewarding experience. In some ways it is similar to kayaking trip; slower but easier to portage. The trip can be both a personal and social event. Enjoy the company, additional support, and safety of others while continuing to meet the world as an individual.

The following are some thoughts and ideas for the content of a clinic on solo paddling. The clinic is intended for people that already have some solo paddling skills and want to hone or add to their skills; it is geared toward flatwater paddling. Since this is clinic rather than a course the focus will be almost purely on skill development. Participants will still be expected to wear a properly fitting PFD and have the appropriate required safety equipment in the boat.

The skills covered in this clinic are what I think of as classic Canadian solo. Typically this style is done in a moderate to small (16 foot) tandem canoe with some rocker.

1. Some general things to remember
   • Consider the following in order: Body postion, Canoe position, Paddle placement and hold, finally which stroke to use.
   • Always consider 3-D pivot points and how the canoe will move (or not) around each. Think of Star Trek: the Wrath of Khan (recall that Kirk used Khan's inexperience in three-dimensional combat)
   • Watch where you are going (down the lake), face that direction. When going backward remember to look over your shoulder at least periodically
   • Try to keep the canoe calm (with little or controlled rolling motion). Use body rotation to help paddle keeping your head still.
   • The grip end of paddle is often (usually) outside of canoe. Keep the blade vertical & deep.
2. Type of Canoe - look at need/intent. Similar questions to tandem canoe.
   • Tripping/day cruising
   • Lake/river
   • Dance/straight
   • Rocker
   • Hull shape (bottom/chine/tumblehome)
   • Symmetrical/asymmetrical
3. Where to sit in a canoe for solo.
   • Empty canoe - going straight forward - turns - so how much do you need to heel the canoe - think of water line. - hull shape in water
   • adjustments loaded canoe - where to load - ballast
   • Adjustments for wind
   • Move (regularly or pay the price) - turn, - high/low kneel - toes in/out
   • Watch your posture - sit up straight (usually)
4. Kneeling, kneeling thwarts, bow seat.
   • Pads (size), rolled edge or rolled towel, large sleeping bag
   • Kneeling thwarts - pros: support, reasonable position, height. - cons: limited motion
   • Remember to move
5. Sizing a paddle for solo.
   • What is intent,
   • Size of canoe, size of you
   • Type - otter tail is a deep water paddle deep below surface and forgiving of small errors., bent shaft (beaver tail/sugar island) is good for going straight forward & best with solo canoe no rocker, Beaver tail to Sugar Island lots of power from initial catch not forgiving (some freestyle and dance practitioner prefer).
   • Need to adjust grip, shift hands (choke up/down)
6. Getting in
   • How to keep the boat from dragging on the ground
7. Going straight
   • Getting going: - blade under the canoe, - shorter strokes, limit rocking (side to side or forward/backward). - move back, less heel - strokes (J, C, Canadian, Rolling J (start with rolling)).
   • Stopping, patience is the key, Start far back with blade close or under canoe, pitch blade into canoe (slight), wait....., correct only if necessary. - standard stop (back paddle) - compound stop (compound back paddle).
8. Pivots
   • Box (far from pivot point)
   • Sweeps (far from turning pivot point)
   • Circle (stirring the pot)
   • Choke up (usually - provides better reach).
9. Circles, importance of weight shift.
   • Inside (shift weight forward)
   • Outside (shift weight back)
   • Outside with cross stroke (weight forward)
10. Spiral-pivots-out
    • Circle (inside) into pivot transfer to spiral out.
    • Same as above but exit pivot backward with outside backward spiral.
11. Turns (tight) forward (landings)
    • Inside - back sweep - running draw/duffek
    • Outside - sweep - jam/running pry (one handed), post - rear running draw
12. Weight turns and why they are useful.
    • Try 'S' curve weight turns
13. Side slips
    • Body rotation to side of canoe (maybe even shift knees)
    • Draw/push away - out of water/in water recovery
    • Sculling draw/push - watch even speed, pitch, and length (fore/aft)
    • Choke up, when near canoe blade deep, almost under canoe.
14. Line pivots, circle pivots (bow to middle/draw).
15. Running side slips
    • Level canoe
    • Initiate slight weight turn toward direction of side slip
    • Plant paddle, then open pitch, adjust location as necessary.
16. OK now lets do it all backwards - just kidding.
17. Synchronized paddling

The following links go to some of my pages that you might find interesting or helpful.

How to Solo Flip a Canoe for Portaging
Solo Landings
Circles
Solo Pivots
Solo Starting and Stopping
Going sideways solo

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If you have any questions or comments please send me Email: burc...@cc.umanitoba.ca